Os Camacheiros

Hidden behind the high brick walls of Ordnance Yard in Lower Upnor, Os Camacheiros occupies one of Medway's more unexpected dining settings. Set beside the river Medway and just a short walk from Upnor Castle and the River, the former military buildings reveal little from the road, making the restaurant feel as much a discovery as it is a destination.

For much of the nineteenth century these brick buildings formed part of the Lower Upnor Ordnance Depot, storing ammunition and supplies for Chatham Dockyard. Today, the old magazine buildings have found a much quieter purpose. The industrial character provides the atmospheric backdrop for traditional Portuguese and Madeiran cooking.

You would be forgiven for going straight past and along Upnor Road if it weren’t for the painted Ordnance Yard sign. Passing through the entrance reveals an unexpectedly open courtyard, generous parking and the river Medway beyond. Outside, planters and pots soften this old brick building, while a handful of tables sit quietly by the entrance for those choosing to eat al fresco on warmer days with the scent of the estuary drifting in the air.

Inside feels rustic and quite homely. High ceilings are softened by colourful flower garlands while exposed brickwork, heavy wood tables and gentle light filter in, retaining something of the building's former character without feeling too overly polished. A small bar sits beside the entrance. From the kitchen at the rear a soft rhythm can be heard. Beyond, a bright conservatory with its own bar offers guests a light filled space, particularly during long summer evenings when the glass covered space fills with the last of the day’s light.

During the day, the building is also home to Bunny and Bear Café. Where coffee, cakes and Portuguese and Polish bakes are served. The café welcomes dogs, making it a popular stop for walkers exploring Upnor and the riverside before the restaurant takes over later in the day.

There is a relaxed confidence to the evenings here. Conversations drift easily between tables. On Fridays the sound of live Fado music fills the air and the service never feels hurried. It has the easy rhythm of a family-run restaurant where people are encouraged to settle in rather than rushing their meal.

The menu stays true to Madeiran roots. Picado arrives as marinated cubes of meat or seafood in rich garlic and wine sauces, while espetadas are suspended from metal stands taking centre stage at tables. One of the most memorable moments, however, is the arrival of the flaming Portuguese chouriço, briefly flaming at the table before eagerly shared.

It is the setting that lingers long after the meal has finished. Behind walls once built to protect one of Britain's most important military depots sits a warm, welcoming restaurant that feels completely at home, quietly proving that some of Medway's most interesting places are sometimes the ones you drive right past.