St Margaret’s Church

Rochester High Street. A path well trodden by locals and visitors alike. The old-world charm, mix of characterful buildings and tales of Charles Dickens make it a popular destination, drawing weekend wanderers from across Medway and beyond. But step slightly off the beaten track and the streets reveal an altogether quieter heritage waiting to be explored.

St Margaret’s Street, just west of Rochester Cathedral, is one of those places. The occasional car drifts along, pupils from King’s School move between buildings and neighbours offer a friendly nod. The Coopers Arms sits quietly, waiting for the next regular or traveller to enter.

Continue just a little further and you eventually reach St Margaret’s Church, its tower rising above the surrounding rooftops, Churchfields and the river. Pass through the lychgate and a path leads into grounds that feel surprisingly different from a traditional parish churchyard.

A substantial green space unfolds around a large old tree, with benches tucked beneath its branches and the occasional historic chest tomb spread amongst the grass, sitting a little wonky with age. Many of the smaller gravestones now line the old boundary walls, moved here after the local authority took over maintenance of the churchyard in the 1950s. Their inscriptions, weathered and worn by time, are increasingly difficult to read.

Here, the River Medway slowly reveals itself below. From this elevated position there are far-reaching views across the water and surrounding landscape, with boats occasionally drifting lazily by.

If you are lucky enough to visit when the tower is open, there is another surprise. Volunteers lead visitors up around 73 steps of the narrow spiral stone staircase, visibly worn by centuries of footsteps. The tower dates largely from the mid-15th century, with records mentioning money given towards a new bell tower in 1457.

The real treat waits right at the top.

Through a small door, step onto the roof and the view opens dramatically. Rochester Castle appears to the right, while the Medway winds gently through the landscape below and the edge of the North Downs rises in the distance. From up here, you get a quite different sense of Rochester and its relationship with the river.

Back at ground level, step inside the church and look for the small brass memorial to Thomas Cod, vicar here from 1448 to 1465. Remarkably, the brass was reused, with another priest engraved on the reverse. Cod was vicar during the same period in which the surviving medieval tower was being built.

Sometimes it is in these quieter walking moments, away from the familiar landmarks, that the character of a town really begins to reveal itself.