Upnor Castle

Usually quiet, today there is a gentle hum of visitors making their way down Upper Upnor's cobbled High Street. The descent passes whitewashed and weatherboard cottages, small picket fences and steps leading to front doors, before the River Medway slowly begins to reveal itself between the buildings.

At the bottom, on the left, large wooden doors and historic brickwork are the first real signs that you have reached Upnor Castle.

Hidden behind tall walls beside the river, the castle makes a surprisingly understated entrance. Step through the threshold and its low, wide profile gradually comes into view, revealing something quite different from the towering medieval castle you might expect.

Built as a practical riverside fortification, Upnor is a place of heavy wooden doors, narrow openings, old stone and brickwork, creaking stairs and dark, slightly damp interiors. Its age is everywhere, from cobwebbed corners to weathered pieces of timber. Glimpses of the Medway appear through narrow windows, where yachts briefly pass into view before disappearing again.

Its position beside the water is central to its story. Upnor Castle was built to defend warships anchored on the Medway and the naval dockyard at Chatham, although its defences would be tested during the Dutch Raid of 1667.

Today, the setting is considerably quieter. The river stretches out towards St Mary's Island, yachts pass lazily on the water and the castle's relatively compact scale makes it easy to appreciate the relationship between the fortifications and the river they were designed to protect.

There is plenty here for anyone interested in architecture and local history, but you don't need to be a history buff to enjoy it. The building itself is wonderfully atmospheric, with much of its character found in the old doors, narrow windows, worn surfaces and glimpses of the river beyond.

Allow time afterwards to explore a little further. Upnor is small and easily explored on foot, making the castle easy to combine with a quiet walk through the village and along the river. On fine evenings, a table outside The Ship is a particularly lovely place to stop. The riverside setting catches some beautiful sunsets.

Good to Know

Opening times: Opening days and times can vary, so check English Heritage before travelling.

Parking: Dedicated visitor parking is available a short walk from the castle. From here, the approach continues on foot through Upper Upnor and down the cobbled High Street.

Accessibility: Access is limited by the historic nature of the site. There is disabled access to the grounds and ramped access into the Lower Magazine, but other areas are not wheelchair accessible. Uneven surfaces throughout.

Dogs: Dogs are not permitted inside the castle, with the exception of assistance dogs.

Facilities: Toilets are available on site. There is currently no café or shop at the castle.

Food & drink: Upper Upnor has pubs within a short walk, while Os Camacheiros at the nearby Ordnance Yard in Lower Upnor is another option for combining a visit to the castle with something to eat.